one hundred thirty eight


FISH STORIES

This harbor in the islands of Washington State was filled with working boats. The fishermen I talked to worked other jobs and fished part time, so these are small businesses. They had a common connection with the New England fishermen, fish stories.

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SMALL FERRY RIDE

The morning fog was still hanging around as I took a ferry ride across the Columbia River. This was a small ferry compared to the two hundred and fifty car one I took across the Puget Sound. This one only held about eight cars so I was waiting for them to break out the long poles. I took this to show the view from my handlebars.

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MOSS COVERED TREES

The moss covered trees and the lush ferns told the story of frequent rainy days. I enjoyed the few days of sun simply by luck. The bright sun revealed the colors, however the fog was always strangely present.

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SUNSETS NEVER GET BORING

The many sunsets I have seen will never get boring. The sun sets on the Pacific and sun rises in the Atlantic, I love them both. This was a state park on the California coast.

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OUT OF THE WAY MOTEL

I stumbled across a small out of the way beach motel. The price was surprisingly reasonable on a weeknight. 

My room had a great view of the sunset. I kept the curtains open all day risking an accidental passer because the view was too beautiful to hide. Luckily no one was in my the part of the motel. 

I wear the same clothes for days on the road so when I can wash them I was them all. While I wait for them to dry I enjoy my freedom.

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BREAKING CAMP AND GETTING READY TO RIDE

Morning sunrise on the Puget sound, I can still taste the morning coffee.

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A GREAT PLACE TO WAIT

I found the house in mid afternoon and waited about four hours for the owners to come home. This was the brother of someone I work with. He knows I'm coming but we have never met. 

I knew I could camp there so I just waited. The Puget Sound had so much going on I was never bored. This was the ferry from Clinton Island to Seattle on the mainland.

one hundred thirty one

The colors of the Puget Sound at sundown.

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PERFECT SIZE

My tent worked well during on this trip. When I rode to Maine I had a two man Mountain Hardware castle. It was roomy but it weighed eight pounds. This tent weighs only three and fits m. I miss the room but I like the lighter load. This was in a front yard of a house on the Puget Sound, you can't beat the view.




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FRIENDLY OASIS

This is a beautiful home in Washington on the Puget Sound. I work with the owner's brother. He moved from Arizona a few years ago and built this beautiful home. 

The floor plan and furnishings were well thought out. The amount of windows, hardwood and slate floors and furnishings make this an impressive home. This was a friendly oasis on my long journey. 

We work for the same parent company and it was hard staying off of that subject. 

I was able to wash my clothes take a shower and sit at a dining room table with a family. Those things sound small but a friendly face and welcome to our home means alot after a few weeks in campgrounds.

One hundred twenty eight


STILL WATERS

Crescent City California, the morning air was crisp and calm. 

The harbor was the home of many wooden fishing boats. The sun, sea water, constant growth of things like barnacles, bird droppings, and time takes a toll on everything in or around the ocean. The night before and noticed some boats had heat lamps glowing inside to keep them dry. 

The government bought most of the certifications or titles to the older boats. I guess that was a way to get them off of the water because they can't leave the harbor. The owners just sold them for a few hundred bucks to people wanting to live on them or just say they have a boat. They pay to dock them there until the novelty wears off or they find another fool to buy them. 

Several sunk and were repaired but the cost to remove them is much higher then just leaving them be. This was another brilliant government plan. There probably was more to the story but I saw one I would love to own or perhaps I found that perfect gift for that relative you don't like. 

one hundred twenty seven


EERIE SILENCE

I was traveling through the Avenue Of The Giants during mid week. The traffic was slow, one car every five or ten minutes. 

The wind was very strong that day but in the shelter of these giants it was completely silent. I could at times hear the wind high in the tree tops. These trees were up to 300 ft and higher in height. The cars made almost no noise because of the pine needle bed muffled all sound. 

The feeling it gave me was that of an empty country church. I thought of the age of these trees and what had happened during their long life. 

The narrow road was edged by these giant trees and their roots raised large sections of the road.  I laughed at the reflectors that I thought were to protected the trees but they are more of a warning so we won't get hurt.

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I'VE NEVER SAW ONE OF THESE!

I was pitching my tent and searching for a "turd free" spot, I had seen several dogs on leashes. 

Out of the corner of my eye, I spotted it. My first thought was "what the heck was that dog eating", then it started moving. I was told this was a normal size north west slug. 

When we travel we not only see new sights, but new wierd things on the ground. When I sleep on the ground, I look much more closely.

one hundred twenty five



THE PACIFIC NORTH WEST JUMPING SLUG

 I found it in a campsite in Oregon. There is always something special if you look. I was camped by the path to the restroom so I asked several guys about it as they passed by. I heard many amazing slug stories, after all this was a fishing campsite

one hundred twenty four


ALWAYS AMAZED AT SOMETHING NEW

The Aveneue of the Giants was a mind blower. I had a friend in Ohio who lived in a historic house with a hugh tree in the yard. They had a picture in the local paper with twelve kids holding hands around its trunk. I was one of the kids on the back side of the tree

I always felt it was the largest tree in the world but wow was I wrong. The morning I saw my first redwood I was amazed. Then tree after tree they grew larger and larger and I was even more amazed. 

I love trees and have watched the seasons change all of my life. The new life of spring, the full bloom of summer, the colors of fall and the revealed structure of the tree in winter. 

This is another wonder many of us miss. However these giants get everyone's attention.

one hundred twenty three


EVER CHANGING WEATHER

I had never seen the Pacific North West and had no idea of the dramatic changes that were possible. 

It was ten o'clock with out a cloud in sight. I reached this vista and saw the low cloud that I first thought was from a forest fire. The ocean sun and wind do some strange things. 

I thought if it was a fog it should have burn off by now however in only a few short miles I would be turning on my red blinking lights to be sure I would be seen. 

The temperature dropped and it looked like rain. A few miles and another eight hundred foot climb I was in bright sun and hot once more. 

I traveled through pockets of warm air then patches of cold face aching raw ocean air. I dressed and undressed at every climb and decent. This is not unusual in cycling but today was weird. I was drenched with sweat then chilled to the bone, again and again. I had eaten well and was not ill so it must have been that crazy weather. 

I love the extremes as you know, so a day like this was another sensory adventure.

one hundred twenty two


MIDDAY FOG

The morning fog was surreal to this desert rat. My tent is small but well ventilated to avoid internal condensation. Each morning the dew was always heavy. 

I missed camping under the stars without a tent as I usually do in Arizona. My down filled sleeping bag began to smell like a wet duck and my clothes never dried completely. This was how I had grown up in Ohio. I remember trying to cut the grass in early morning, so this was nothing new. 

If you want green you get fog dew and rain. The desert dryness has it's perks but green is very special and well worth the inconvenience.

The morning fog was usually gone by nine o'clock, but somedays it hung around and somedays it came back again out of the blue. 

The entire trip down the coast was a new weather experience but the weather gods were kind to me. It was raining where I was going and raining where I had been, but never where I was.

one hundred twenty one


WELCOMED DISTRACTION

With the roar of waves in the background, the fog drifted in at mid morning. I entered a fog filled tunnel of lush moss covered Redwoods the slender shafts of sunlight found their way to the ground. 

This took my mind off the third five hundred foot climb of the morning and my ailing hip. 

After a thousand or so miles, I was grinding down and needed a rest day or two, but this moment was one I had come so far to see.

one hundred twenty


OVER THINKING AGAIN AND AGAIN

I live in the brown desert of Arizona, where it is hot and seldom rains. I'm about to ride through the rainy northwest. The one thing I hear from people it that I am going to be cold and wet. 

I'm not a novice camper but I need to limit the weight. I have been training on a loaded bike for weeks, but since this place is fairly flat so the hills will be a challenge. 

I have repacked everything dozens of times and will probably do it twelve more before I go. I will leave in one week so this is the crazy time. Everything is ready but my mind will create every disaster you can imagine. 

What I do know it is going to be green, wet, and beautiful. The worst that can happen about the cold is that I'll be forced to buy something on the road. I hate taking too much but I can always mail it home. 

Well, there I go again trying to out think things. This isn't my picture but it is about all I know about where I'm going. In a strange way, I like keeping things in the unknown. I must go now and repack.

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This picture is dated, I now use the front two panniers for clothing and electronics. I store my rain gear and winter stuff, plus off the bike clothing in one. The other has the every day stuff, shorts, shirts, socks, etc. I have a case for my map software for my GPS, battery chargers, phone charger, etc. My journal and maps balance out the load. I keep them at about nine pounds each, which gives a nice stable feel. Layers, layers, layers is the idea. This next trip will be long and cold so I will be a bit heavier. I also have what I call my"shoes that bend"shoes. Cycling shoes have stiff soles that work well on the road but off the bike I need shoes that bend.

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My kitchen pannier. I carry enough food to eat if I can't find a grocery store for fresh food. I try to cook alot and stay out of restaurants. When I stay in a motel I buy orange juice or ice cream and milk and cereal. The big restaurant meal is breakfast you can eat alot and eat cheap. A lot of coffee and a leftover newspaper. I love coffee shops so that's were I squander a few bucks. Free internet is also a perk.

one hundred seventeen


My panniers are packed in two ways, one is by weight, the other is by function. This one holds my bedroom and house. I use different layers of sleeping bags depending on the weather. My tent is a glorified bivy, but it weighs only 3.5 lbs. The poles breakdown to 12 inches so they fit inside my pannier.

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I use a Cane Creek Thud Buster seat post. This is an old idea which was state of the art equipment popular before full suspension bikes. I swear by this simple but heavy butt saver, it gives me an extra 30 miles per day. It keeps an equal distance between your feet and seat, which makes it hard to notice it is there. It never developes an anoying swivel like most spring models. You stay in the seat on rough roads, this is vital at the end of a long day. You don't use your legs as much for suspension.

one hundred fifteen

I found this Brooks seat in an older bike shop. It was so hard I could have used it to pound nails into an oak board. Brooks no longer makes this model so it is what I call a classic. This thing weighs a pound or more and will always wear brown on my shorts. I hated this thing for a long time but people would tell me how much I would love it once I broke it in, I hated them too. They were right, I love it and will transfer it to my next bikes. I don't oil it or baby it, I just put a saddle softener on the inside at least once a year or so.

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The first 1500 miles is a war between your seat and a hard leather seat.

one hundred thirteen


SURLY WHAT A COOL NAME

Surly is the brand of bike I ride. They are a small company selling unique frame sets, clothing, whole bicycles, bike racks, and bottle openers. On the surface they appear to be a bunch of guys who are selling stuff they stole the night before. Under the surface they are a well run company with an excellent product selection and professionalism. Their unique niche has allowed them to thrive in a very competitive business. 

Their marketing is genius because it portrays the same attitude as their bikes. They don't claim to be a hand built, professionally endorsed and you will pay dearly for it company. 

They create an idea that serves a niche market, then they find someone to build it to their high standards. They make bikes that are tough, unique, and priced reasonably. They know how to appeal to the "My bike is "Mad Max" bomb proof and I don't need a four thousand dollar bike to prove I'm hip to the spandex crowd". 

They sell frames made of steel with room for fatter tires. I bought a Cross Check whole bike for about seven hundred bucks, it's great for the streets and off road. I have beat this bike for years, commuting, jumping curbs, and 14000 miles of touring so far, it is a tough rig. Ask around bike shops and you will find many bike mechanics personally ride Surly but sell and work on the big brand names. 

In my travels the people who noticed my Surly had chain wallets, tattoos, some were drunk, but no spandex. I love their company, products and image. No this is not a paid endorsement (but I would take free stuff).

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MY TWO WHEELED TRUCK

I guess I should start with the bike. I spent alot of time but not much money on my rig. There is that balance between looking homeless and being a target. 

First it must be strong and easy to repair so I chose a Surly Cross Check with road bike geometry because I prefer riding road. 

The frame is steel with enough room for fat tires. You must view it as a two wheeled truck. I only have about 700 bucks in the original whole bike.

one hundred eleven


EXPERIMENTING WITH MY ELECTRONICS

Nice try but too cluttered. I received a few comments asking about future trips, so far San Francisco to the Seattle area is next. I will have a month on the road, but I'm still planning, well as much as I plan. 

If anyone has some input on prevailing winds,points of interests,or even a safe place to camp, all feed back would be welcomed. I love the fall season so it will be soon. This picture is the place from which I view the world.

one hundred ten


MEMORIES OVER FLOW

October 12, 2006, I'm back home in one skinny, hairy, stiff and sore piece. I had no big problems, but I need to hole up for a while.

Visions of my trip roll through my memory. I want to tell someone everything I experienced. I'll post more in a few days. Rhonda, thanks for the note.

one hundred nine


MY MOTHER THE WORRIER

I just returned from the east coast and a week with my eighty one year old Mother. She wanted to see Washington DC and the ocean, so I rented a car, loaded her up and hit the road. 

Mom and Dad traveled a lot until he became ill with Altzheimers and died eight years ago. You know when you return home, no matter how old you are, you become a little kid and are reminded to eat, watch crossing the street and to get enough sleep. No matter how old you are moms will always be moms. 

That is why my Mom has no idea of my travels by bicycle. I wish she could see my blog and share my adventures, but she would never sleep and one night out of cell range would have the police in three states searching for me, that's just how she's wired. 

If I call her while on a local training ride she gets upset when I don't call when I get home. I love this great lady but out of sight out of mind is better but I wish she could enjoy her little boy's adventures as he plays. 

I will someday share all of this, but I still have a few more miles in these legs. We were on roads I had toured and saw the places I camped and ate, it was hard not to say something. I spent way more money then I planned, but the smile on her face was worth it.

one hundred eight

This picture has nothing to do with cycling, but those are my old boots. I wore them when I checked my traps before school. After I thought they were worn out my Father wore them for ten more years shoveling snow. I'm now 55 and things like these seem to draw my attention. Perhaps without bicycle touring I wouldn't have noticed, I've learned to look for those little things.

one hundred seven


ONLY IN OHIO

I visited my home town in the rust belt of Ohio. The industry has seen better days so the economy is bad. The houses are built to live in unlike the five thousand square foot investment barns of Phoenix. The homes are practical not stylish and many if you look closely there is a trailer inside.  

There were small stores where the cashier talks to everyone without the canned phrases like "have you found everything?" There are still farms with twenty cows and a Farm-all tractor built in the sixties. Sports team jerseys and the mullet hair style will still attract the ladies. 
Drivers know how to change a tire and jump a dead battery and so do the men. 

This is America at it's best, some may look down at this part of the country but wisdom doesn't always come from ivy league schools. I have learned a lot from farmers and shop workers. I'm always proud to be from this wonderful place. 

This is a picture from the internet, but I'm sure there is one on a house in eastern Ohio. Don't think it would be on the front door, we're not without class. We nail our deer racks and fish heads on the back of the garage.

one hundred six


FRESH EYES

I've lived in the southwest for almost twenty years and the vast open spaces still blow my mind. I travel back to the Ohio valley area where I grew up and see the place through new eyes. By new eyes I mean I see it fresh like I've never seen it before. 

If we live in a place long enough it can become invisible. Even the Grand Canyon would become that big hole in the ground over time. 

I talked to people who live places like this, they talked this way. I have found people bored with beaches. I know this is a normal process but does it have to happen? 

I knew a man named Westley Hanna, born in 1900 and lived his whole life within a five mile area. He looked out of the same window at the same pasture for endless years. He had a garden in the same spot, drove the same roads, watched the same sunrise and sunsets for even more years. He was able each new day to see something new in these places and that always amazed me. 

A trip through his garden was an adventure, I got an education about the life and the behavior of cows every time we looked out of that kitchen window. He looked at things in a wonderful way. 

I have met many who could see what was in front of them, one was my Dad. We waited for trains to pass almost daily in this small industrial town. We could just be angry because we had to wait or accept our fate and watch in wonder. I sometimes think my Dad would rather watch trains then drive. 

Dad drove steam trains during the war and had a romance with them ever since. I thought he was nuts, probably because he was my Dad but I know a lot about trains now. My point is seeing what is in front of us is a mind set. 

The Grand Canyon is a mind blowing sensory overload that everyone can see, but even it can become boring. I believe I have learned a little about how to see the mind blowing things in boring places. In other words a shuttle launch or a bird building a nest, both are a wonder but one is just easier to notice.

one hundred five


HONEST TOUR GUIDE

The Grand Canyon is a visual place. Visitors go there to see it. I thought that was the only experience. 

I have questioned this after seeing a tour bus filled with blind tourists. They piled out with eyes skyward, service dogs and white canes. Two  headed the wrong way and the tour guide turned them around. 

I was unable to bring myself to sneak a picture, not that they would notice, it just didn't seem right. 

There may be an energy or force I can't detect. I just don't think there is a white cane long enough to feel the width and depth of the canyon. 

One thing I do know, the tour company is reputable. They could have stopped at any quiet parking lot and lied.

one hundred four


BEAUTIFUL DISTRACTION

The sunset at the Grand Canyon is one of the highlights of the American National park system. I took this beautiful picture, along with everyone in the campground. Unfortunately some people were taking advantage of this distraction to steal things back at the campground.

It sounds crazy but in this beautiful wonder of the world there are a few scoundrels. To enter the park it costs $25 per car and $12 to camp. You would assume you were safe from thieves. I guess it makes sense because everyone goes to see the sunset and the camps are empty. 

I was not a victim because I am usually in survival mode. I trust people but I avoid tempting them. The campers across from me had their truck broken into and others also lost things from their tents and campers.

The park rangers came and filled out reports for insurance. The Ranger said it had been a problem for sometime. They are obviously better outdoors men then cops. I think it would save them a lot of paper work if they sent a park ranger earlier to watch the campsite as the sunsets....Duh!