two hundred sixty two

 SQUEAK SQUEAK SQUEAK

I'm old school in my approach to touring bikes. A touring bike is designed to be kind of boring. The day in and day out wear and tare of the elements, vibration and hard use require reliability. 

I understand why they once hanged horse thieves. I became so dependent on a functioning bicycle, in fact at times it was a matter of life and death. My worst nightmare was having my bike and gear stolen, I have read stories of this happening to other adventurers. I know I would figure out how to get home but it would be very very hard to get over.

Disk breaks are better in many ways and are very reliable. I prefer a braking system that is bomb proof and one I can repair. Cantilever style brakes have one nagging problem they glaze and squeak. My first two sets of pads did this, they functioned well but they squeaked like hell. 

I discovered these Kool-Stop brake pads made with two densities of rubber. They do not glaze or squeak. This is my second set. The first set was fine with some wear but I changed them out to start fresh for the next tour.

Roaring down a mountain pass using the stabbing method I use driving tour busses with air brakes. You brake hard to drop the speed then coast until you gather the speed again then hard brake again and so on. I found it works much better than riding the brakes. 

These brake pads were amazing time after time, even wet stopping was reliable. One really great thing I never ever heard a single SQUEAK!

two hundred sixty one

 ROAD SHOCK

My Surly Cross Check does not have any type of suspension. The tires are hard because they have 100 psi and the wheel hubs are attached directly to the bike frame. The handle bars are attached directly to the frame through a rigid stem. 

Everything on a bicycle vibrates, every bump travels directly through the entire bike. I lost my first Garmin Etrex Vista due to this vibration and fresh strawberries turn to jam in abut 20 miles. 

Good gloves help but all day on a bicycle takes learning a technique.  I have learned over time how to grip my down bars to minimize the effects of this vibration. 

Constantly changing hand position, avoid long contact with the heal of your palm and not resting too much weight on the bars. This can be adjusted by having a proper bike shop fit. Make sure they understand you are doing long distance touring.

I have not yet developed a butt technique. On a ride around town I am constantly in and out of the saddle to absorb the road shock but all day on a touring bike this is not possible. 

There was a 100 mile stretch in Southern California, the berm had a deep cut groove every 20 feet, there was no way to take every hit with my legs. Eventually I had to take each hit with my full weight on the seat. Each shock traveled through the bike and up my spine. This was a very long day.

I needed something to absorb the road shock. I found the Cain Creek Thud Buster seat post. They make a larger size with plenty of travel for off road. I had one but found the compact size met my needs much better. No springs or fluids to squeak or leak and three densities of rubber inserts to adjust the firmness. 

There are many other designs on the market but I like this design because it keeps a constant distance between my butt and my feet. I never feel like I'm  bouncing in fact I don't feel it is there. I do know it adds miles to my day and cuts down the aches and pains of a long days ride.