thirty seven

A WORLD I DON'T KNOW

In a vista pull off as the sun went down I talked with a local surf board builder, he was watching waves. I was watching too but I could not see what he could see. 

The currents, swells and anatomy of a breaking wave were just a beautiful ocean to me. He saw inside into the mechanics of everything, I was jealous of him. 

He could have blown me off as a want to be surfer but I think he understood I was an observer not a want to be.

I asked a lot of questions about surf boards, patterns of the waves and the dangers. He said, "When you go out there, you get really small", that's something I'll never forget.