two hundred thirty three
IT IS SIMPLE
two hundred thirty two
ROUTE 88 APACHE TRAIL ROAD IN ARIZONA
The first day I started
at three AM to get some miles in before it got too hot. I made big miles that first
day but by the second day the temperature reached 115F by noon. The famous words of Dirty Harry (Clint Eastwood) "A man must know his limitations"
ran through my mind.
With this in mind I decided to abort my original plan and divert to
Roosevelt lake. I spent the remainder of the day napping, hydrating, and
attempting to stay cool. After sundown I headed toward my home in
Gilbert Arizona under a clear sky and full moon.
It was impossible to
ride the steep washboard gravel road which was a third of the 63 miles. I pushed my loaded bicycle at least half of the way. It took 9.5 hours to reach the city and my home.
I hydrated and rested my swollen
legs the next day while I thought about what there was to learn from
this nightmare misadventure. I learned I was finally mature enough to
realize my limits.
As a younger man my pride would have gotten in the
way. This was a vital lesson well worth the nightmare. I reconfigured my
bike and set more realistic goals.
two hundred thirty one
These are the places I have seen from the seat of my trusty bicycle "Walter".
San Diego California to Gilbert Arizona was my first long trip, this was in the early spring of 2004. I was in the middle of no where with only my bicycle and it was perfect. I watched a private Blue Angel air show in El Centro California as they practiced for their upcoming season.
The second trip was in the summer of 2004. This trip began in San Francisco California and ended in San Diego California following the narrow but scenic Pacific Highway.
In late summer of the same year, I took my third trip starting in St Augustine Florida and ending in Bar Harbor Maine. This included the outer banks of North Carolina, Washington DC, and the autumn leaves of New England.
The fourth trip was in the summer of 2006; it began in Cedar City Utah. This trip included the Grand Canyon, Zion National Park, Bryce Canyon, and the Navajo Nation; it ended in hot Gilbert Arizona.
Trip five was in 2007 beginning in San Francisco up the Pacific coastline, the Redwood Highway, and the Washington islands. This trip ended in Bellingham Washington.
I then took trip six in the spring of 2008, starting in San Francisco crossing Nevada on highway 50, three 9000 foot passes, and Niagara Falls. This trip ended on a rainy Hampton Beach New Hampshire beach.
In 2009 I headed to Vancouver Canada, parked my car at a friend’s house in Tsawwassen British Columbia Canada and headed for Key West Florida. I saw a forest fire, a Mississippi River flood, tornadoes in the plain states, and a hurricane in Alabama and Key West.
These trips totaled over 14000 miles or 22500 km according to my GPS.
Obviously it has been way too long since my last adventure. I have a few more states left to explore. I'm in the process of planning my next Really Big Circle.
two hundred thirty
BEST SMILE EVER
I had borrowed a land line in a gas station because my cell phone was out of power. The clerk behind the bullet proof glass was dressed head to toe in a black burga with only her eyes showing. I assume the glass office was air conditioned, but as she handed me the phone it was almost too hot to touch. This was one tough lady.
I discovered I had passed their house by about twelve miles so I had to back track. It was extremely hot and humid on this Florida mid August afternoon. My body was bullet proof after almost two months on the road so it was no big deal.
The generosity of people always amazes me and this was no exception. I was a total stranger with only a phone number and a familiar name. If it was me, I would have been much more suspicious of a guy on the road.
My back tire was going flat in this picture, it finally had to be replaced from wear. I did get a ride in his Porsche to a local bike shop the next morning and hit the road by noon. Another amazing day on the road.
I think I can do this one more time. That smile is worth all of the suffering.
two hundred twenty nine
FAT 'N HAPPY
I'll keep you posted.....
There are more than 200 posts, be sure to continue after the first page by clicking on "older posts", use the blog archive, or count down by number. The posts are random, but I tried to express complete thoughts in each post. The nature of this blog is about thoughts and feelings, not a travel report or guide. I journeyed through many beautiful places, what I want to express are my observations and the things I learned.
two hundred twenty eight
FLORIDA COAST NEAR ST. AUGUSTINE
The Atlantic Ocean after a long ride from Vancouver BC. St Augustine Florida was hot and humid. I was nearing the end of this epic journey because I was only eight hundred or so miles from Key West. It is strange how my perspectives had changed. I was lean and mean, this is a really good side effect of all of the effort.
two hundred twenty seven
COLDER THAN IT LOOKS
It was hot on this June day so I was overheating after a long climb. The water looked really refreshing so I found a secluded cove and took a swim all natural. When I jumped in I thought my heart would stop! I quickly got out, got dressed and had to continue the climb to get warm again.
two hundred twenty four
My strange method of travel is simply the way I want to travel. A motor home is an adventure, but the physical stress of my bicycle, dealing with the elements, finding safe harbor each night, and the amount of time involved is what I love. Yes, my butt gets sore, my body gets tired and dirty, I get hot, cold, and wet. The days are long and lonely. Why do I love it so much? .........................Good question.
two hundred twenty two
two hundred twenty one
My first night off of the road was behind a small church in Washington state. There was a good chance that there would be a heavy dew so under an awning is always good.
The back roads of Washington were quiet. I did what I tried not to do and put in way too many miles for the first day. It was an 80 plus day with a few hills, it was probably adrenaline. I ate pasta and talked to the preacher for a couple of hours. He was a very large fellow with a great sense of humor. He had a lot of questions about my gear and previous adventures. I was back in the real America, not the one on TV.
two hundred twenty
BUTTERFLIES
Doing one last gear check to get ready for the endless journey. Key West is just the name of a city at this point, it is so far away I know not to waste time trying to wrap my mind around it.
I feel so out of shape in this picture, but I know I will do OK if I take it easy and keep my hip from acting up. I trained in San Francisco only a little with a full load, but did frequent light road bike training rides. I think the hills gave my hip joints more flexibility, but I must be careful. A goodnight of sleep and at first light I will head out.
two hundred nineteen
DID I FORGET SOMETHING?
Well, it has been a very long strange trip since I last posted. Life has some twists and turns and a few bumps. I hit a very large bump, oh those affairs of the heart.
Well, I'm back to update you on my adventures. Walter is striking a pose in Vancouver BC at the start of my latest trip. It was summer in Canada and the idea was to leave my car with a friend and ride to Key West Florida.
I'll try to post daily to get this trip down in digital before I forget everything. Thanks to all who have followed my misadventures and have taken the time to write.
two hundred eighteen
WALTER'S SEXY SISTER
This is a picture I had posted before. I haven't given this bike a name, but it's the one I ride almost daily. I got a great deal in Mesa on this light full carbon fiber frame bike. the components fairly high end quality. It only weighs 18.5 pounds vs the 90 pounds my touring bike weighs loaded.
Now that I live in San Francisco Walter is stored away waiting for our next adventure. I can't ride without hearing the call of the road. For now I'll explore the hills and coastlines in and around San Francisco.
This touring thing has marked me for life.
two hundred seventeen
TWIN PEAKS
This is overlooking San Francisco from Twin Peaks facing east, I live down in that clutter of houses. San Francisco is very congested, but it is very alive with every type of food, language and ethnic group. I don't do many long rides like I did in Phoenix, but they are a lot more aerobic. I'm becoming a very good hill climber.
two hundred sixteen
two hundred fifteen
NOE VALLEY 24th STREET
two hundred fourteen
I THINK WHEN HE LEFT THE HOUSE WEIRD WAS THE POINT
two hundred thirteen
THE OFFICE
This is where I have been for the past few months. My
new job in San Francisco is much different than any I knew existed. The almost
forty years I worked in the meat and grocery biz was more than enough. I work
on web sites and do odd jobs and live with a house full of great people.
I get
a place to stay and a few bucks and the use of a very nice computer. I'm not a
computer guy, but this is a great chance to learn. I spend endless hours
hunting and pecking at this desk and am always glad I'm not punching a clock
and sporting a necktie. I'll try to post more so stay tuned.
two hundred twelve
TAKING A BREAK WAITING OUT THE STORM
Eureka Nevada on the loneliest highway route 50. I started my journey a bit too early, but it is hard to plan any trip that will take two months.
Spring is a season of weather turmoil, so the occasional late snowfall can be expected. This one was coupled with high winds and a very low wind chill.
Water would freeze in a water bottle in minutes, and the roads were slippery. The building I stayed in was a closed restaurant, part of a campground. The day was spent trying to stay warm, and listening to short way radio.
I heard a BBC broadcast and some Spanish baseball. Later the owner of the camp ground stopped and told some great local stories. They were about Mormon crickets, local whore houses, military night maneuvers, and the local who killed who history.
This old mining town sat 78 miles from Ely, and 68 miles from Austin, this was what I found later to be "the big city".
two hundred eleven
A DISTANT STORM HEADING MY WAY
The obsession of most touring cyclists is to know the weather in advance. I have had many campsite conversations of hope or dread of upcoming headwinds, tail winds, floods, fires, avalanches, hurricanes, tornados, earthquakes, meteor showers, plagues or rain, most of the time they are wrong.
I however choose to live in ignorant bliss because I can't change it plus I like surprises. If it rains, I have rain gear, if there is a headwind it just takes longer and if it is too bad I hole up in my tent, pavilion, coffee shop, baseball dugout or a cheap motel.
Through Kansas and Nebraska, tornado warnings were excepted so I camped in low protected spots. I love extremes and this trip was filled with sub freezing snow covered high altitude climbs, ninety degrees with high humidity, long hot dry desert stretches, flood and fire detours and the occasional afternoon thunderstorms.
Touring is a true adventure and weather is a big part of that adventure.
Two hundred nine
THIS IS THE SECOND THOUGHTS STAGE
I'm on a very nice bike through the center of Sacramento California. In Davis I had a long talk with a local cyclist about touring. He had many many questions. This convinced me to take more time to talk. I believe he was a visitor to my blog for most of my trip.
two hundred eight
COMMANDO CAMPING
The deer and wild turkeys were so tame they grazed within ten feet of my tent. The morning was the first of many rainy days. I found a quiet restaurant to hang out until the rain stopped.
two hundred seven
NOT JUST THE LAST BUT THE ONLY STOP
They were familiar with cycling tourists because there was no where else to stop. It was another forty miles to the next town, this was a long long way from Starbucks, McDonald's or Walmart.
That trailer is the motel. There were eight rooms $45 per room. We were in Nevada perhaps they were used for more then sleeping. I camped just before the next town.
two hundred six
FIRST ENCOUNTER WITH GENEROUS STRANGERS
This is Junior, a dog who became my best friend while camping north of San Francisco. This was a truck farm and chicken farm owned by a very hospitable couple. After I set up my tent they invited me in for a wonderful meal with candles and linen napkins. This was a great start to my trip. Junior spent much of the night sleeping by my tent.
two hundred five
NEVADA STATE HIGHWAY 50 KNOWN AS THE LONELIEST HIGHWAY
The treeless landscape allowed a strong wind to blow with an eerie silence. My ears lost that background tone we all have from the noise of the daily rat race. After a few days of quiet I begin to truly hear. I could hear trucks and cars from five or more miles away.
They would first give a hint they were real as small moving speck on the horizon, then they grew large enough to be real. Soon I could determine if it was a car or truck. As the noise grew clearer then louder, then in a brief moment it became larger and louder then life.
Only a few feet away multiple tons of speeding mass rushed by me at seventy miles per hour or more, the deafening noise and the blast of air was mixed with a momentary look into another set of human eyes.
In a moment the brief encounter goes quiet and fades into the distance. I return to the sounds of my breathing, the ticking of my clip in peddle and my thoughts.
two hundred four
A BIG TYPE OF BEAUTY
Nevada has a big type if beauty. If you look at what is
directly around you, it seems dry, gray, and lifeless. However, at a distance
or looking at the bigger picture it is breathtaking. US route fifty known as
“the loneliest road" is a full week of surreal silence and beauty. The snow
level was 6000 feet in elevation; I knew I would soon be there.
two hundred three
THE SHOE TREE
It got my attention but I'm sure everyone who passes wonders when and how this strange ritual had begun. I'll make a guess, a large amount of alcohol was involved.
two hundred two
FEELING SMALL, A VERY GOOD THING
two hundred one
MEMORIES
two hundred
THE MORNING MYSTERY
My mind would search for my location through my pre caffeine brain fog. Pictures flashed through my mind of previous mornings but I knew what was outside of my tent would all be new. I zip open the rain fly to reveal the surprise.
The roar of morning traffic, the sounds of rushing water, the songs of wild birds, or the crowing of chickens would greet me. I didn't know what direction I was looking especially if it was over cast. The discovery that there was no dew, heavy dew or rain. This morning mystery was something I grew to enjoy.
I soon will be back in my own bed with my own bath room which will be nice, but the nomad in me will be a driving force for life.
one hundred ninety seven
HOLY POLISH BOY AND A SODA
An East Cleveland Baptist Church was selling lunches as a
Saturday fund raiser. I learned about Polish boy sandwiches. It's a Polish link that looked a lot like a hot dog in a bun, covered with Cole slaw and ketchup soaked French fries. The deal came with a Shasta soft drink or juice box. It was a new experience taste for me.
The people there were interested
in my journey. They asked tons of questions and put me on their Sunday prayer list. I had one of the more meaningful conversations with a man about my age or older.
After the usual basic questions, he asked me if I had found that people were good? From the look in his eyes I felt he was wondering if this country still had a soul and had good people.
I assured him based on my experience there were still generous and kind people. I felt he
feared the country was lost and it was too late.
We discussed if a black man could do what I
was doing and how he would be treated. We figured a man can always find what he
is seeking. If you look for kind hearted people you will probably find them. If
you search for hate, bigotry, and racism, you will probably find plenty.
We shook hands and I rode away. I think we gave each other many things to think about. These were good people I think they saw the same in me.
one hundred ninety six
THE FINISH LINE
I made the coast of New Hampshire 4044 miles from San Francisco according to my GPS. This includes all of the miles Walter zig zagged around the back roads taking side trips.
As I arrived I told the motel owner I had ridden from San Francisco, she didn't seem impressed. There was no fanfare just a warm bed and shower. I was more alone that night then any I can remember.
It rained for the last three days and the next day will have severe storms forecast. I rode up the coast to Bob's Bike shop and met Bob and crew. It was nicer then the last visit, no stitches or x-rays.
I rented a car and drove to the Akron Canton airport. I slept in the car that night then turned it in when the rental place opened then I rode 30 miles to my Mothers.
She was cool about my traveling without telling her (for now). I am so tired I'll be like a returning Tom cat for a few days now that I'm in a safe place. I don't have to watch my back or sleep with one eye open. I'll post pictures soon.
Dave and Will the young English men reached New York safely.
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