two hundred thirty four



The next adventure Hawaii.....

two hundred thirty three


IT IS SIMPLE

Life gets simple on the road. There are a few bodily functions and hygiene issues plus staying in touch with the people who worry, but eat, sleep, and ride is about it. I know I can't live out there but it sure is a beautiful place to visit.

two hundred thirty two


ROUTE 88 APACHE TRAIL ROAD IN ARIZONA

Mid summer in 2003 I attempted to ride to the high desert of Showlow Arizona. I was using this as a shake down trip to learn what works and what doesn't work. 

The first day I started at three AM to get some miles in before it got too hot. I made big miles that first day but by the second day the temperature reached 115F by noon. The famous words of Dirty Harry (Clint Eastwood) "A man must know his limitations" ran through my mind. 

With this in mind I decided to abort my original plan and divert to Roosevelt lake. I spent the remainder of the day napping, hydrating, and attempting to stay cool.  After sundown I headed toward my home in Gilbert Arizona under a clear sky and full moon. 

It was impossible to ride the steep washboard gravel road which was a third of the 63 miles. I pushed my loaded bicycle at least half of the way. It took 9.5 hours to reach the city and my home.

 I hydrated and rested my swollen legs the next day while I thought about what there was to learn from this nightmare misadventure. I learned I was finally mature enough to realize my limits. 

As a younger man my pride would have gotten in the way. This was a vital lesson well worth the nightmare. I reconfigured my bike and set more realistic goals.

two hundred thirty one


These are the places I have seen from the seat of my trusty bicycle "Walter".


San Diego California to Gilbert Arizona was my first long trip, this was in the early spring of 2004. I was in the middle of no where with only my bicycle and it was perfect. I watched a private Blue Angel air show in El Centro California as they practiced for their upcoming season.

The second trip was in the summer of 2004. This trip began in San Francisco California and ended in San Diego California following the narrow but scenic Pacific Highway.

In late summer of the same year, I took my third trip starting in St Augustine Florida and ending  in Bar Harbor Maine. This included the outer banks of North Carolina, Washington DC, and the autumn leaves of New England.

The fourth trip was in the summer of 2006; it began in Cedar City Utah. This trip included the Grand Canyon, Zion National Park, Bryce Canyon, and the Navajo Nation; it ended in hot Gilbert Arizona.

Trip five was in 2007 beginning in San Francisco up the Pacific coastline, the Redwood Highway, and the Washington islands. This trip ended in Bellingham Washington.

I then took trip six in the spring of 2008, starting in San Francisco crossing Nevada on highway 50, three 9000 foot passes, and Niagara Falls. This trip ended on a rainy Hampton Beach New Hampshire beach.

In 2009 I headed to Vancouver Canada, parked my car at a friend’s house in Tsawwassen British Columbia Canada and headed for Key West Florida. I saw a forest fire, a Mississippi River flood, tornadoes in the plain states, and a hurricane in Alabama and Key West.

These trips totaled over 14000 miles or 22500 km according to my GPS.

Obviously it has been way too long since my last adventure. I have a few more states left to explore. I'm in the process of planning my next Really Big Circle.

two hundred thirty


BEST SMILE EVER

This picture was taken with a telephoto lens as I finally found the correct house. I had been given the name of some friend in southern Florida by a friend in Canada. All I had was a name, a phone number and a general location. After a very awkward conversation, they checked with each other and granted me access. I think my story was so far fetched it must have been true.

I had borrowed a land line in a gas station because my cell phone was out of power. The clerk behind the bullet proof glass was dressed head to toe in a black burga with only her eyes showing. I assume the glass office was air conditioned, but as she handed me the phone it was almost too hot to touch. This was one tough lady. 

I discovered I had passed their house by about twelve miles so I had to back track. It was extremely hot and humid on this Florida mid August afternoon. My body was bullet proof after almost two months on the road so it was no big deal.

The generosity of people always amazes me and this was no exception. I was a total stranger with only a phone number and a familiar name. If it was me, I would have been much more suspicious of a guy on the road. 

My back tire was going flat in this picture, it finally had to be replaced from wear. I did get a ride in his Porsche to a local bike shop the next morning and hit the road by noon. Another amazing day on the road.

I think I can do this one more time. That smile is worth all of the suffering.


two hundred twenty nine


FAT 'N HAPPY

This is a recent picture taken in 2012. I'm spending a lot of time working in front of a computer key board and haven't thrown my leg over a bicycle in a year. However I have a few miles left in my legs and will take another trip soon. I have not lost my sense of curiosity. I still wonder what's over the next hill and around the next corner. I'm still seeing what's in front of me and being where I am.

I'll keep you posted.....

 There are more than 200 posts, be sure to continue after the first page by clicking on "older posts", use the blog archive, or count down by number. The posts are random, but I tried to express complete thoughts in each post. The nature of this blog is about thoughts and feelings, not a travel report or guide. I journeyed through many beautiful places, what I want to express are my observations and the things I learned.  

two hundred twenty eight


FLORIDA COAST NEAR ST. AUGUSTINE

The Atlantic Ocean after a long ride from Vancouver BC. St Augustine Florida was hot and humid. I was nearing the end of this epic journey because I was only eight hundred or so miles from Key West. It is strange how my perspectives had changed. I was lean and mean, this is a really good side effect of all of the effort.

two hundred twenty seven


COLDER THAN IT LOOKS

The waters looked cold but I had no idea how cold. The winter snow pack must have been heavy in the Cascades. There were large building size ice chucks above the highway. They were only a few miles away so the water was coming directly from the ice pack...brrrr! 

It was hot on this June day so I was overheating after a long climb. The water looked really refreshing so I found a secluded cove and took a swim all natural. When I jumped in I thought my heart would stop! I quickly got out, got dressed and had to continue the climb to get warm again.

two hundred twenty six


GREEN GREEN AND MORE GREEN

Green, green, green I will always love green. I lived many years in Arizona and fell in love with the desert. However I still love green.

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The inland lakes and rivers of Washington are cold and run quickly, the water is clear and clean.

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My strange method of travel is simply the way I want to travel. A motor home is an adventure, but the physical stress of my bicycle, dealing with the elements, finding safe harbor each night, and the amount of time involved is what I love. Yes, my butt gets sore, my body gets tired and dirty, I get hot, cold, and wet. The days are long and lonely. Why do I love it so much? .........................Good question.

two hundred twenty three

Wide berms, sunshine, fresh air, 4000 miles ahead of me and I'm wearing sunglasses.

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A part of America I missed so much. The back roads are the reason I do this. Every place has a flavor, but the smells and sounds of the country are my favorite. The trees are more evergreen, the barns are a little different, but it's all familiar to this country boy at heart.

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My first night off of the road was behind a small church in Washington state. There was a good chance that there would be a heavy dew so under an awning is always good.

The back roads of Washington were quiet. I did what I tried not to do and put in way too many miles for the first day. It was an 80 plus day with a few hills, it was probably adrenaline. I ate pasta and talked to the preacher for a couple of hours. He was a very large fellow with a great sense of humor. He had a lot of questions about my gear and previous adventures. I was back in the real America, not the one on TV.

two hundred twenty


BUTTERFLIES

Doing one last gear check to get ready for the endless journey. Key West is just the name of a city at this point, it is so far away I know not to waste time trying to wrap my mind around it. 

I feel so out of shape in this picture, but I know I will do OK if I take it easy and keep my hip from acting up. I trained in San Francisco only a little with a full load, but did frequent light road bike training rides. I think the hills gave my hip joints more flexibility, but I must be careful. A goodnight of sleep and at first light I will head out.

two hundred nineteen


DID I FORGET SOMETHING?

Well, it has been a very long strange trip since I last posted. Life has some twists and turns and a few bumps. I hit a very large bump, oh those affairs of the heart. 

Well, I'm back to update you on my adventures. Walter is striking a pose in Vancouver BC at the start of my latest trip. It was summer in Canada and the idea was to leave my car with a friend and ride to Key West Florida. 

I'll try to post daily to get this trip down in digital before I forget everything. Thanks to all who have followed my misadventures and have taken the time to write.

two hundred eighteen


WALTER'S SEXY SISTER

This is a picture I had posted before. I haven't given this bike a name, but it's the one I ride almost daily. I got a great deal in Mesa on this light full carbon fiber frame bike. the components fairly high end quality. It only weighs 18.5 pounds vs the 90 pounds my touring bike weighs loaded. 

Now that I live in San Francisco Walter is stored away waiting for our next adventure. I can't ride without hearing the call of the road. For now I'll explore the hills and coastlines in and around San Francisco. 

This touring thing has marked me for life.

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TWIN PEAKS

This is overlooking San Francisco from Twin Peaks facing east, I live down in that clutter of houses. San Francisco is very congested, but it is very alive with every type of food, language and ethnic group. I don't do many long rides like I did in Phoenix, but they are a lot more aerobic. I'm becoming a very good hill climber.

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TWIN PEAKS

My morning ride usually takes me to Twin Peaks Road overlooking San Francisco. This was a clear early November day. Several car commercials and movies have been filed here. That is the famous curve.  

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NOE VALLEY 24th STREET

This is the street in front of my home in San Francisco. The hill beyond is where the previous pictures were taken. The Pacific Ocean is about six miles beyond the peak. I ride up through the steep neighborhood streets and I do mean steep.

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I THINK WHEN HE LEFT THE HOUSE WEIRD WAS THE POINT

The free spirited people of San Francisco are everywhere. Best of all, they make me feel very normal. I'm crazy enough to ride a bicycle 4000 miles, but an a fashion adventure truly frightens me. This guy has never said no to a new fad, or a bong hit.

two hundred thirteen


THE OFFICE

This is where I have been for the past few months. My new job in San Francisco is much different than any I knew existed. The almost forty years I worked in the meat and grocery biz was more than enough. I work on web sites and do odd jobs and live with a house full of great people. 

I get a place to stay and a few bucks and the use of a very nice computer. I'm not a computer guy, but this is a great chance to learn. I spend endless hours hunting and pecking at this desk and am always glad I'm not punching a clock and sporting a necktie. I'll try to post more so stay tuned.

two hundred twelve


TAKING A BREAK WAITING OUT THE STORM

Eureka Nevada on the loneliest highway route 50. I started my journey a bit too early, but it is hard to plan any trip that will take two months. 

Spring is a season of weather turmoil, so the occasional late snowfall can be expected. This one was coupled with high winds and a very low wind chill. 

Water would freeze in a water bottle in minutes, and the roads were slippery. The building I stayed in was a closed restaurant, part of a campground. The day was spent trying to stay warm, and listening to short way radio. 

I heard a BBC broadcast and some Spanish baseball. Later the owner of the camp ground stopped and told some great local stories. They were about Mormon crickets, local whore houses, military night maneuvers, and the local who killed who history. 

This old mining town sat 78 miles from Ely, and 68 miles from Austin, this was what I found later to be "the big city".

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A DISTANT STORM HEADING MY WAY

On a small bicycle weighing ninety pounds with less then one horse power you are at the mercy of every whim of mother nature. 
At times I felt like a row boat in the middle of the ocean. 

The obsession of most touring cyclists is to know the weather in advance. I have had many campsite conversations of hope or dread of upcoming headwinds, tail winds, floods, fires, avalanches, hurricanes, tornados, earthquakes, meteor showers, plagues or rain, most of the time they are wrong. 

I however choose to live in ignorant bliss because I can't change it plus I like surprises. If it rains, I have rain gear, if there is a headwind it just takes longer and if it is too bad I hole up in my tent, pavilion, coffee shop, baseball dugout or a cheap motel. 

Through Kansas and Nebraska, tornado warnings were excepted so I camped in low protected spots. I love extremes and this trip was filled with sub freezing snow covered high altitude climbs, ninety degrees with high humidity, long hot dry desert stretches, flood and fire detours and the occasional afternoon thunderstorms. 

Touring is a true adventure and weather is a big part of that adventure.

two hundred ten



STARTING A NEW ADVENTURE ACROSS THE CONTINENT

Leaving San Francisco on the ferry north to Vallejo. Everything felt wrong and awkward just because that's the way tours start. The look from this end was much different then the look back from the other end. Only 4044 miles to go, piece of cake.



Two hundred nine


THIS IS THE SECOND THOUGHTS STAGE

This is the second day, everything is wrong, nothing feels quite right and I'm wondering if my body will make it. I have felt this way each trip so I know it will pass soon.

I'm on a very nice bike through the center of Sacramento California. In Davis I had a long talk with a local cyclist about touring. He had many many questions. This convinced me to take more time to talk. I believe he was a visitor to my blog for most of my trip.

two hundred eight


COMMANDO CAMPING

The bike path through Sacramento was a great place to camp, after I got through the center of town there were less sketchy people living in the bushes. 

The deer and wild turkeys were so tame they grazed within ten feet of my tent. The morning was the first of many rainy days. I found a quiet restaurant to hang out until the rain stopped.

two hundred seven


NOT JUST THE LAST BUT THE ONLY STOP

Nevada was a state that needed some planning and strategy to survive. This was the only stop between two small desert towns. I had ridden almost forty challenging miles to this point. The food was good and the people were friendly. 

They were familiar with cycling tourists because there was no where else to stop. It was another forty miles to the next town, this was a long long way from Starbucks, McDonald's or Walmart

That trailer is the motel. There were eight rooms $45 per room. We were in Nevada perhaps they were used for more then sleeping. I camped just before the next town.

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FIRST ENCOUNTER WITH GENEROUS STRANGERS

This is Junior, a dog who became my best friend while camping north of San Francisco. This was a truck farm and chicken farm owned by a very hospitable couple. After I set up my tent they invited me in for a wonderful meal with candles and linen napkins. This was a great start to my trip. Junior spent much of the night sleeping by my tent.


THIS IS JUNIOR

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NEVADA STATE HIGHWAY 50 KNOWN AS THE LONELIEST HIGHWAY

This was it for 400 plus miles through Nevada. The traffic was very light, about one car or truck every half hour to as much as an hour and a half. Once or twice it was even longer. Talk about feeling isolated. 

The treeless landscape allowed a strong wind to blow with an eerie silence. My ears lost that background tone we all have from the noise of the daily rat race. After a few days of quiet I begin to truly hear. I could hear trucks and cars from five or more miles away. 

They would first give a hint they were real as small moving speck on the horizon, then they grew large enough to be real. Soon I could determine if it was a car or truck. As the noise grew clearer then louder, then in a brief moment it became larger and louder then life. 

Only a few feet away multiple tons of speeding mass rushed by me at seventy miles per hour or more, the deafening noise and the blast of air was mixed with a momentary look into another set of human eyes. 

In a moment the brief encounter goes quiet and fades into the distance. I return to the sounds of my breathing, the ticking of my clip in peddle  and my thoughts.


two hundred four


A BIG TYPE OF BEAUTY

Nevada has a big type if beauty. If you look at what is directly around you, it seems dry, gray, and lifeless. However, at a distance or looking at the bigger picture it is breathtaking. US route fifty known as “the loneliest road" is a full week of surreal silence and beauty. The snow level was 6000 feet in elevation; I knew I would soon be there.

two hundred three



THE SHOE TREE

This strange tree had no explanation or name it was simply standing alone on a long stretch in Nevada. Several people had stopped to take pictures but they were also puzzled. There was every type of shoe imaginable is hanging there. This includes a bra and a pair if panties nailed to the tree trunk. I have a feeling this is what rural Nevada calls tradition.

It got my attention but I'm sure everyone who passes wonders when and how this strange ritual had begun. I'll make a guess, a large amount of alcohol was involved.

two hundred two


FEELING SMALL, A VERY GOOD THING

The open roads of Nevada were a distant memory until I scanned through my pictures. The days were spent in silent solitude and surreal beauty. If you ever want to feel small, cycle these endless landscapes. After less then a week in my own bed the road is again calling me.

two hundred one


MEMORIES

You cannot know what stirs in me as I see this picture. It fills up my senses like nothing else. The pictures, sounds, silence, and smells of the road. I hope one day you can feel it.

two hundred


THE MORNING MYSTERY

My daily journey took me sometimes 100 miles from where I had slept the previous night. Each morning as open my eyes the inside of my tent is 
familiar. Everything beyond that was a new mystery. 

My mind would search for my location through my pre caffeine brain fog. Pictures flashed through my mind of previous mornings but I knew what was outside of my tent would all be new. I zip open the rain fly to reveal the surprise

The roar of morning traffic, the sounds of rushing water, the songs of wild birds, or the crowing of chickens would greet me. I didn't know what direction I was looking especially if it was over cast. The discovery that there was no dew, heavy dew or rain. This morning mystery was something I grew to enjoy. 

I soon will be back in my own bed with my own bath room which will be nice, but the nomad in me will be a driving force for life.

one hundred ninety nine

The North West Coast, its like New England with amazing sunsets but no chowder!

one hundred ninety eight


BICYCLE CULTURE IS BICYCLE CULTURE


It was a clear warm Saturday in East Cleveland, and there he was , a man named Daryl. He was the creator of this over the top two wheel ride plus several others he had in his bike stable. I love bicycles as did Daryl. I am proud to feature this man of style.


one hundred ninety seven


HOLY POLISH BOY AND A SODA

An East Cleveland Baptist Church was selling lunches as a Saturday fund raiser. I learned about Polish boy sandwiches. It's a Polish link that looked a lot like a hot dog in a bun, covered with Cole slaw and ketchup soaked French fries. The deal came with a Shasta soft drink or juice box. It was a new experience taste for me.

The people there were interested in my journey. They asked tons of questions and put me on their Sunday prayer list. I had one of the more meaningful conversations with a man about my age or older. After the usual basic questions, he asked me if I had found that people were good? From the look in his eyes I felt he was wondering if this country still had a soul and had good people. 

I assured him based on my experience there were still generous and kind people. I felt he feared the country was lost and it was too late. 

We discussed if a black man could do what I was doing and how he would be treated. We figured a man can always find what he is seeking. If you look for kind hearted people you will probably find them. If you search for hate, bigotry, and racism, you will probably find plenty. 

We shook hands and I rode away. I think we gave each other many things to think about. These were good people I think they saw the same in me.

one hundred ninety six


THE FINISH LINE


I made the coast of New Hampshire 4044 miles from San Francisco according to my GPS. This includes all of the miles Walter zig zagged around the back roads taking side trips. 

As I arrived I told the motel owner I had ridden from San Francisco, she didn't seem impressed. There was no fanfare just a warm bed and shower. I was more alone that night then any I can remember. 

It rained for the last three days and the next day will have severe storms forecast. I rode up the coast to Bob's Bike shop and met Bob and crew. It was nicer then the last visit, no stitches or x-rays. 

I rented a car and drove to the Akron Canton airport. I slept in the car that night then turned it in when the rental place opened then I rode 30 miles to my Mothers. 

She was cool about my traveling without telling her (for now). I am so tired I'll be like a returning Tom cat for a few days now that I'm in a safe place. I don't have to watch my back or sleep with one eye open. I'll post pictures soon. 

Dave and Will the young English men reached New York safely.